To start came terrific soda bread with equally good butter. It’s surprising how often this critical marker of a meal is overlooked. Soda bread can be dense, but here it was light, nutty and almost cake-like in consistency and crumb. Then came a tiny amuse-bouche of a cheese and onion tart, like a Welsh rarebit in flavour, punching above its weight.

There’s no doubt that meats are the star of the show. One wall of the restaurant features an impressive rotisserie with large joints, as well as fish and vegetables, slowly turning and roasting, while there are also fridges with selected cuts supplied by Kerridge’s butcher in Marlow, The Butcher’s Tap.

After an unremarkable pumpkin soup, a main of Cotswold lamb was a carnivorous work of art. The base was a heady mix of minty cabbage with a deep jus – OK, gravy – with the perfectly pink saddle placed on top. It was then crowned with a lamb cromesquis, a sort of breadcrumbed and fried croquette. As if that wasn’t decadent enough, there was a little black cast iron cocotte of perfect shepherd’s pie, with elegant peaks of mashed potato piped on top. It all made for a glorious and proudly British dish which lives long in the memory.

A quick shout-out to two condiments to accompany his famous triple-cooked fries that we also felt obliged to order. The first, a ramekin of Kerridge’s sharp, sweet and green gherkin ketchup; the second, a tomato ketchup that came in a defiantly old-school plastic tomato complete with fake green stalk as a nozzle. Disappointingly, Penelope Cruz seemed to have neither on her table.

Impeccable desserts were a slice of brown butter tart with malted milk ice cream and a glorious chocolate pudding, both a pretty hefty £13.50 (US$17). Dinner was substantially more than the bargain set lunch offer, but still felt well worth it, coming out to US$66 per person, including the service charge.

Just 1.5km away, across the Thames, the newly opened Bankside Hotel is home to Art Yard Bar and Kitchen. Somerset-born Lee Streeton is head chef and oversees the 161-bedroom property’s breakfast, room service and all-day dining.

Streeton was previously head chef at the acclaimed 45 Jermyn Street and also worked at The Ivy where, he explained, he once met a friendly Tom Cruise as he walked through the kitchen.

“Modern London – food I like to eat” is Streeton’s lovely and evocative description of his cooking. There’s a generally healthy feel to the menu, with a couple of richer dishes for those feeling decadent.

Fittingly, given its name and location just minutes from Tate Modern, contemporary art is a big feature in the open, bright and relaxed dining room with its mobiles inspired by American sculptor Alexander Calder, and sustainably sourced furniture.

A lunch of shared plates kicked off with fried anchovies with sage leaves and lemon. It could not be simpler or more delicious, a clever marriage of ingredients bought together, tempura style.

Two small pizzettes, one with clams and another with mushrooms and black truffle, showed a sure hand at work over the large wood-fired oven. Then Dorset crab – Streeton’s dad was a fisherman – came two ways, the white flesh flaked on top of the brown meat that had been whipped into a creamy mousse-like consistency.

The stand-out plate of the quietly confident chef was his chargrilled cuttlefish with squid ink spelt and chorizo. The last of those ingredients can often overpower dishes, but here it played a supporting role to perfectly cooked seafood and grains.

Streeton’s desserts are also well worth a try, especially his take on a Bakewell tart with figs and cream. Lunch was just over US$38 per person.

Finally, to another London opening that continues to make waves in the form of Brat in Shoreditch. Disappointingly there was no Hollywood royalty present, either in the dining room or walking through the kitchen, but happily the food was the biggest star on show.

The upstairs room in an old pub – previously known for its strippers – was a warming and welcome sight on a cold evening and “Truman’s” and “Stout” beers could still be made out in gold lettering on the walls.

As you enter, the massive range and grill makes it clear that Brat is all about fire, as does the knowledge that chef Tomos Parry worked at Singapore’s Burnt Ends, a temple to open flame if ever there was one.

Brat means turbot in colloquial old English and the fish is simply a must-order. But first, three huge langoustines came roasted and simply drizzled with lemon oil, calling for more of Parry’s excellent bread to make the most of the glorious slick underneath. That was to become a theme.

One of the best beef tartare’s I’ve ever tasted was next, hidden under Brussels sprout leaves, with cracked pepper and chilli. Brat clearly honours the Basque tradition of not messing with great produce.

Parry explained in a subsequent phone call that his turbot is inspired by their specific approach of cooking whole fish slowly over fire.

“We work closely with different day boats to ensure we get the best pick of turbots, mainly from the south west coast. When’s it’s not available it’s not on the menu. Traditionally you cook fish quite quickly so it doesn’t dry out but cooking the fish at a low temperature for a long time breaks down the collagen, treating it like a piece of meat,” Parry says.

At Brat the turbot is grilled over lumpwood charcoal, before being rested, allowing the roasting juices to emerge. They are then whipped into a traditional pil-pil style emulsion which is used to baste the flesh at the last minute before serving it, meaning it stays incredibly moist. It’s big enough to serve at least two, and ranges from £65-£80 depending on size. A three-course meal, including the turbot to share, will come out to about US$63 per person.

For seafood connoisseurs and lovers, this sensational dish truly raises the bar and explains why it has already become one of the capital’s most iconic plates.

Kerridge’s Bar and Grill

Art Yard Bar and Kitchen

Brat